Behind this restaurant’s ‘sophisticated’ Asian fare in NoMo in Charleston

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XO Brasserie opened in mid-March at 1090 Morrison Drive, an up-and-coming area that is growing quickly.

Owner Herman Ng said he is feeling the love already.

“People are saying that I’m bringing something new, fresh and different to Charleston and they feel as if they’re in Chicago, New York, or Miami,” he said.

The restaurant’s website promises “a unique and sophisticated dining experience in the NoMo neighborhood.”

You could say that Herman Ng is “to the restaurant born.” His mother hailed from Hong Kong, his father from Canton and Ng learned at an early age how restaurants ran.

“My parents operated restaurants for about three decades starting in the 1970s. I was the child of immigrants running around in the back,” he said, adding that he did everything from washing dishes to cooking on woks, before striking out on his own.

Ng’s pursuits included working for The Indigo Road Hospitality Group where he served as director of operations for the Oak Steakhouse brand.

“To this day I am happy to have learned at a young age the ins and outs of how restaurants operate, including the business side of things,” he said.

It was at the Indigo Road Hospitality Group where Ng met his Executive Chef Michael Chanthavong, who hails from Laos and brings Cantonese and Sichuan-influenced cuisine to the table.

Ng has chosen to serve dinner only.

“We want people to be able to relax and enjoy their time here. How much time do employees have for lunch, 30-45 minutes?” he asks, adding that the challenge of keeping a full contingent of employees for both lunch and dinner isn’t something that interested him anyway.

The business, which supports a team of 30, has been in the works since August 2023, and hasn’t presented much of a challenge to Ng, now that COVID-19 is in the rearview mirror. Inside, the restaurant seats 87 and future plans include installing a patio, which will seat 24.

Modern, elevated ‘approachable’ interior

The interior of XO Brasserie is sleek, modern, attractive, with what some have described as a “moody” ambiance, brought about by low lighting, strategically place spherical mirrors and leafy plants.

According to Ng, popular items on the manageable menu include the flash-fried lobster with Sichuan peppers, sauteed greens and chili soy, the Steak Chow Fun comprised of ribeye, onion, egg, bean sprouts, scallions and soy and, a personal favorite of Ng’s — the house-made dumplings.

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For large parties, there’s a Lazy Susan at the table to promote sharing a variety of entrees with the flick of a wrist.

“We want to be approachable, fun, lively — anything but stuffy,” said Ng. In keeping with the approachable moniker, Ng points out that there’s a parking garage located behind the restaurant.

“We have a two-hour validation,” he said.

Additional items include a vegetarian Mapo Tofu prepared with a roasted pepper mix, Sichuan chili oil, sesame and scallions, a sweet and savory salt-and-pepper shrimp made with confetti pepper, garlic, house soy sauce, five spice and apricot jam and a crab-fried rice.

“Chef Chanthavong enjoys working with plenty of fresh ingredients: lots of fish, fresh seafood products and spice, but not too much,” said Ng.

Ng’s bar seats 13 and the menu includes imaginative cocktails made with Asian ingredients. One that is currently popular is one called “The Chinese Awakening,” which is made with oolong-infused vodka.

Ng said that he’s enjoying the popularity of the place.

“It exceeded my expectations. You’re not just going to stumble upon the restaurant. You need to come with purpose and intention to have a nice meal. We try to deliver on all aspects: food, service, hospitality,” Ng said.